Meeting the Shackleton

The expedition phase of our trip really began when we met up with our escort vessel  and icebreaker, the RRS Ernest Shackleton, flagged out of the Falkland Islands.

And hoo boy, was it a production!  

We were asked to gather on deck to greet her, and we willingly obliged.

There she was, waiting for us just off land.

She greeted us with all the bells and whistles- zodiacs trolling around us in V- formation and both helicopters buzzing and dive-bombing us. 

Captain Vorland said it was the first time a helicopter had flown under his bridge!

WHAT A WELCOME to the high Arctic!

I trotted up the stairs for a quick cup of tea, only to come face-to-face with a real live Mountie- better known as Chris, one of the two representatives of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police that live in Ulukhaktok.

I felt like Sweet Nell meeting Dudley DoRight.

The sunsetting over the tiny hamlet and it's copper-filled mountains...

I wonder who uses this remote cabin.

That evening, several residents of Ulukhaktok came aboard to treat us to traditional Inuit drumming, singing and dancing.

Everyone got up to dance.

Well, almost everyone.

I’m going to be quite bruised by all these pinch-me moments.

Heading North

Five days at sea separated Nome, Alaska and our first stop in Canada.  Up the Bering Sea, through the Bering Strait, and into the Chukchi Sea...though we would not have known it.

We sailed up the Bering Sea.  Here is what we should have seen…

 Here is what we saw.

We passed between Little Diomede Island (US) and Big Diomede Island (Russia).  Here is what we should have seen…

And here is what we saw.

Then we sailed a bit south to view the Smoking Hills.  Here is what we should have seen….

And here is what we saw.

I’m not complaining--this was the last of the fog and rain/snow.  Truly.  You’ll see.

Our  five days were filled with lectures-at least three lectures a day, on topics ranging from ice science, to Inuit history, to global warming theories, to global politics, to polar bear migration—and the list goes on and on and on.  Aboard were over twenty experts in various fields to help us fully appreciate our amazing trip.

There was lots of reading to do…..

And safety briefings and training on riding in a zodiac.

On my pillow one night was this wonderful carving of an Inuksuk- a reminder of where we were going, and where we will have been.

I don’t think there was a guest or crew member who was not growing more and more excited the farther north we sailed.

Whatever the view was.

A Typical Sea Day on Crystal Serenity

If you have never cruised with Crystal Cruises, you might be forgiven for thinking that a sea day is boring.  What, no port to investigate?  No shopping to be done?   How do you spend your day— or in our case- five straight days of sea days?

Sea days have become my busiest days. No time to waste- let’s go.

Sunrise in these parts can be early- so if you’ve pulled back your veranda curtains to look out the night before, you might roll over and open an eye at 5am.  You are warm and toasty under your down duvet, so if you feel like coffee in your room ( Anna-Grace, I’m looking at you!), you stretch out one hand  to the phone and dial room service.  

A cheery voice greets you “Good morning, Ms. Horne.  What may I do for you?”  That is, unless your remembered to hang a little sign out ordering what you want in the morning and what time you want it.  Then there’s just a gentle tap on the door at the appointed hour.

But, I know I have to get up and get going.  So I throw on workout clothes, and head up to deck 13 and the gym- passing by early riser’s continental breakfast for a shot of juice.  On alternate days, I wait until after 8am yoga class.  I could wait and do the 9am pilates class, but I have plans.

After workout, it’s either the breakfast buffet on deck 12 or the dining room on deck 5.  Lots of coffee.  

Get cleaned up because it’s nearly 10 am and time for the first lecture. It could be “The Wreck of the Maud”, or "The Best Options to Stop North Korea”, or “The Landscape of Social Networking”.

No worries if you miss a lecture doing something else, like sleeping, or wine tasting, knitting class or needlepointing.  They are replayed in your stateroom.

10:45am- want a cappuccino  in the Bistro before the next round of lectures?

11:00am- any talk sound interesting?  Hmmm-How about a chat on the House of Faberge?  How about one on polar bears?  How about a seminar on acupuncture or a ladies’ pamper party up in the  spa?

Oops, gotta run- it’s nearly 12 noon, and time for team trivia up in Palm Court.  It’s a family tradition to participate.  Stacy gives your brain a workout- some days are more successful than others.  On this cruise, I’ve learned that Mexico and Luxembourg are the only countries with the letter “x” in them, that the Montreal Expos became the Washington Nationals, and that the color red appears the most in flags of the world.

12:45pm- strap on the feed bag, it’s time to eat again. Waayyy too many options. Dining Room- three formal courses. Lido Buffet- sometimes with an Asian, Indian or Latin theme.  Trident Grill for a burger, or Tastes for a Margherita pizza or pot stickers.

Afternoon is a rinse-and-repeat of the morning- lecture at 1:30pm- or knitting class, art class, computer class, movie, bridge class, paddle tennis match, golf lesson….

Or just sitting in Palm Court watching the waves roll by.

Or a nap by the pool (well, not this cruise, although the pool is always 82f and the hot tubs 102f).

3:30pm- anyone up for full English tea?  Cucumber sandwiches, scones, tarts- the works. Live piano and violin music  softly playing in the background.

Back in the room about 4:30, and you are asking yourself “ Where has the day gone?” as you try to figure out what to wear to dinner…….

Yep- a day at sea.

Nope, it never gets old.