Monday, June 8, 2009

X'ian Day 2

Xi'an is more than just the Terra Cotta Warriors--It's a medium-sized city (by China standards!) of 8 million.



There are 3 Starbucks, 2 McDonalds, a KFC, and, yes,


A great wall runs around the ancient part of the city

with amazing views




and phonetically translated warning signs.


We visited a jade factory and shop-by law, tourists must be taken by at least one state-owned store each day....


Walking through the market area






Then we went to the most UNUSUAL MOSQUE- built in the ancient Chinese style


THIS is the minaret!


We visited the loveliest Buddhist temple- the Big Wild Goose Pagoda


with some beautiful gardens...




This is one of the eight auspicious symbols of Buddhism- the two fish represent the goodness of all living beings who are fearless.










The evening we saw the Terra Cotta Warriors, we went to a quite interesting dinner and show. It might have been that we were in the throes of sensory overload, had enjoyed the Chinese beer, or were just plain exhausted, but by the end of the evening we were in fits of laughter. It was a show worthy of the best Las Vegas revue--complete with a master flute player, "world renowned", as the program said, for his ability to mimic birds. One of our crowd said it sounded like "several birds caught in a burlap bag full of cats..."


You decide for yourself...






The prelude instrumentalists were profoundly excited to be performing for us.


The show was colorful..




We were up early the next morning to see the Emperor's Hot Springs-








Our crowd










Lunch was an amazing assortment of dumplings




And a quick visit to the State Museum, for more shots of warriors









and one last AMAZING Buddha



and it was off to the airport to fly to Guilin.

Friday, May 29, 2009

The Warriors

I think I have discovered why I have been putting off writing about travelling to Xi'an and seeing the Terra Cotta Warriors. The enormity of the visit. The sheer volume of photos to wade through, things to remember, sights seen...it was all overwhelming. So I am just going to put up photos--descriptions just will never do it justice, so I will just say a thing or two about some of them...

To start you off with a little information...( click here if you want some more information on the warriors)

In 1974, three local peasants were digging a well. Up came a terra cotta head. The rest is history. It's amazing the armies hadn't been found before- there was even a large grave dug in the 1400's (I think) that missed hitting one of the soldiers by mere meters.

So far, only a few thousand of the estimated 6000 warriors have been excavated. They are highly colored, but the paint is light sensitive, and fades within days. The excavation has been slowed in an attempt to discover how to preserve the coloring.

Yes, each warrior is unique. No two, to date, are alike. They have differences, not only facially, but also according to their rank and duties- foot soldiers, archers, charioteers, cavalry, commanders.....

There are three pits. The first, the original site, is covered in a huge glass building. The second is the command center, housing many generals. The building is very dark and deep. The third site is a mix of both soldiers and commanders- and mostly unexcavated. It, too, is covered and mostly dark in an effort to preserve what is unearthed. There is also a museum showing various non-terracotta artifacts.

Enough- I could go on and on explaining. Our tour guide in Xi'an, Angela, was quite knowledgeable and very enthusiastic. I've forgotten much of what she told us, but bought a book- and one of the farmers who was digging the well was in the bookshop that day and signed it!!!


The first site of the giant pit


Here is where the farmers were digging in 1974


The original entrance used around 250 BC to place the warriors









They are in trenches with earth between. Originally, timbers were placed between the earth "walls" and a ceiling was constructed.




Our wonderful guide, Angela










a still buried warrior


a pile of unexcavated warriors




it goes on, and on, and on...




Still not touched after 25 years.


These warriors were broken and meticulously repaired




Proof I was there!


Did I mention the cherry trees were blooming?




Inside Pit 2- notice how much darker it is. Pit 3 is similar


a charioteer originally held a terra cotta horse by reins


These charioteers were in wooden chariots (now decayed) driving teams of four horses


Pit 3 plan. The chariots and horses are in whte, archers red, commanders in blue and foot soldiers in beige.


More yet to be excavated. Note the timbers and roof still remain intact.


Pit 3- notice the tomb built up over the pit? Had the body been buried, the warriors would have been discovered.


Excavation in progress




Archer on display


Not his hair topknotted toward the left. This allowed for his bow to be drawn without snagging his hair in real life...so also in terra cotta.


I love the way his left arm rests on his knee...so lifelike--and remnants of red coloring on his armor- in real life this would have been leather holding together pieces of slate.


Look at the braids on his head-such detail


A general




A photo showing a just-excavated warrior with coloring intact. They were very brilliantly painted in yellows, blues, greens and reds.






Next- the bronze weapons and spirit chariots recently unearthed.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009