Saturday, January 6, 2018

Last of the Serious Ice

The Belloit Strait would be the last of the "serious" ice- the stuff that was worrying Serenity's Captain Vorland (although he wouldn't say so until after we were safely through).  We knew something was up when- on the advice of our ice pilots- he requested of the Canadian government, and received, the help of an additional icebreaker.







Working as a team, the two icebreakers serpentined through the pack ice.






Learned a bit about spotting polar bears at a distance...this is a male- narrower hips, thicker neck.


Female- wider hips, shorter, thinner neck.


One of my favorite photos from the whole trip- KOWABUNGA!!!!



One hardy guest. The temp was about 17f with a wind of about 20 knots. Note, also, the rain streaks on the window between us (I wasn't crazy enough to go out there just for a photo of her flipflops....)






Ice is beautiful isn't it?  Until you realize that bright blue stuff is Serenity's underwater hull paint scraped off by it...


About a third of the way through the 18 kilometer strait, the pack ice broke up, and Des Grosseilliers  turned around to sail back to help another ice breaker make a safe passage.





The northernmost tip of  continental North America.




These photos aren't all mine.  Many thanks to the countless guests and crew who madly airdropped photos back and forth, eager to share the best of the best with all.

Friday, January 5, 2018

Ice Ice BABY

Meet Ron. 


He's the operator of our Cineflex camera- a 5-axis gyro stabilizing platform  that houses a camera with a 1400mm lens.  Which basically means we can see a mile-plus away with perfect steadiness.


My camera...


Ron's camera.


Letting Ron do the work means I can also watch wildlife from the comfort of my stateroom..




And it was the ONLY way I could see this mama and her cubs scamper and play on the ice.


Thanks, Ron.

The rest are mine....

We approached the pack ice, having picked up a second icebreaker, Les Grosselliers, overnight.




And the rest, as Monty Python would say, is mainly visual.













An Unexpected Adventure on the Ice

An "Unexpected Adventure"??  Crystal Cruises described it as an " opportunity to explore remote areas when weather and conditions permit...(to) provide a true expedition experience."

Whilst sailing the Northwest Passage east  toward Pond Inlet, we had one such "Unexpected Adventure" --and it turned out to be longer than anticipated!!

The day dawned overcast-



 With something unexpected for this Southern gal--SNOW FLURRIES (in August!)
(I know it's just a flake, people--use your imagination!)


So, kitted out once again against much chillier environs than before (we were told to prepare for 45 minutes to one hour on open water in a brisk wind...), we boarded our zodiac at the assigned time.


The ship was not anchored, but constantly using it global positioning system to steer clear/thrust away sheets of ice........(more on THAT later)...


The ice floes and bergs are quite spectacular up close (and by up close, I mean 2 meters away)








 Several zodiacs deployed at 10 minute intervals- but all were easy to spot given our safety-cone orange expedition jackets....



A TRUE Crystal touch.  Out on the water, inches from the waterline- feet away from icebergs, and along comes a zodiac serving hot chocolate.  I mean...MAN! Luxury!!!!!


So..... Adventure! Excitement! Whales! Seals! All wonderful...and our zodiacs lined up to reboard Serenity.


Now, this is what the sea looked like.  Ice floes broken and floating. 


You've heard how an ice can mess with a ship.  Remember Titanic?
But this looks fairly harmless....




Crunching along Serenity's bow.... Here you can see one of the azipods attempting to push away the sheet of ice.


The thing I noticed most was the sound.  You know the sound that comes from your car when you accidentally drive over a piece of concrete in a parking lot or curb? (Oh, don't tell me you haven't absentmindedly done that.....super embarrassing...) Take that sound and make it 20 times louder and have it echo........it's pretty unnerving to hear, and something to see....

Until it gets to the zodiac tender deck....


And we watch as the wind pushes the ice up against the steel of the custom platform, shoving it up in the air and twisting the posts.

I mean UP in the air, and watching the steel- STEEL- get casually mashed aside and under the platform.  By FROZEN WATER.

Man, I wish I had my camera set to "video"- but fumbling as I was with gloves, and then well....we just sat there and watched.  Sorta too dumbfounded to move.


Ok, I get that ice can do serious damage--but witnessing it first hand, from sea level is a whole 'nother thing.  One I had not expected to experience.

Check out how the dock was twisted when they raised it off the water line.  This was AFTER they worked to get it righted and somewhat straightened out.


The officers on the bridge looked more than casually interested.


Those brave AB's (able-bodied seamen, for you land lubbers) worked and worked getting the wedged platform loose-  remember they are hanging out in sub-freezing air, inches from falling into sub-freezing water, trying to pry a piece of welded steel mesh platform of considerable bulk ...all whilst being stared at by 100 rather chilled guests who were more than ready for lunch.

Crystal- always planning ahead, of course had a backup deck...and once the mangled steel was removed, were able to drop the new piece in and lash it down...and we were able to  de-zodiac and warm up.


 Aces, everyone of the deckhands...Aces, all.

After a little luncheon downtime to quickly weld the new piece in place, a new set of adventurers went off to get up close and personal with the ice.

Unexpected, totally!