Friday, January 5, 2018

An Unexpected Adventure on the Ice

An "Unexpected Adventure"??  Crystal Cruises described it as an " opportunity to explore remote areas when weather and conditions permit...(to) provide a true expedition experience."

Whilst sailing the Northwest Passage east  toward Pond Inlet, we had one such "Unexpected Adventure" --and it turned out to be longer than anticipated!!

The day dawned overcast-



 With something unexpected for this Southern gal--SNOW FLURRIES (in August!)
(I know it's just a flake, people--use your imagination!)


So, kitted out once again against much chillier environs than before (we were told to prepare for 45 minutes to one hour on open water in a brisk wind...), we boarded our zodiac at the assigned time.


The ship was not anchored, but constantly using it global positioning system to steer clear/thrust away sheets of ice........(more on THAT later)...


The ice floes and bergs are quite spectacular up close (and by up close, I mean 2 meters away)








 Several zodiacs deployed at 10 minute intervals- but all were easy to spot given our safety-cone orange expedition jackets....



A TRUE Crystal touch.  Out on the water, inches from the waterline- feet away from icebergs, and along comes a zodiac serving hot chocolate.  I mean...MAN! Luxury!!!!!


So..... Adventure! Excitement! Whales! Seals! All wonderful...and our zodiacs lined up to reboard Serenity.


Now, this is what the sea looked like.  Ice floes broken and floating. 


You've heard how an ice can mess with a ship.  Remember Titanic?
But this looks fairly harmless....




Crunching along Serenity's bow.... Here you can see one of the azipods attempting to push away the sheet of ice.


The thing I noticed most was the sound.  You know the sound that comes from your car when you accidentally drive over a piece of concrete in a parking lot or curb? (Oh, don't tell me you haven't absentmindedly done that.....super embarrassing...) Take that sound and make it 20 times louder and have it echo........it's pretty unnerving to hear, and something to see....

Until it gets to the zodiac tender deck....


And we watch as the wind pushes the ice up against the steel of the custom platform, shoving it up in the air and twisting the posts.

I mean UP in the air, and watching the steel- STEEL- get casually mashed aside and under the platform.  By FROZEN WATER.

Man, I wish I had my camera set to "video"- but fumbling as I was with gloves, and then well....we just sat there and watched.  Sorta too dumbfounded to move.


Ok, I get that ice can do serious damage--but witnessing it first hand, from sea level is a whole 'nother thing.  One I had not expected to experience.

Check out how the dock was twisted when they raised it off the water line.  This was AFTER they worked to get it righted and somewhat straightened out.


The officers on the bridge looked more than casually interested.


Those brave AB's (able-bodied seamen, for you land lubbers) worked and worked getting the wedged platform loose-  remember they are hanging out in sub-freezing air, inches from falling into sub-freezing water, trying to pry a piece of welded steel mesh platform of considerable bulk ...all whilst being stared at by 100 rather chilled guests who were more than ready for lunch.

Crystal- always planning ahead, of course had a backup deck...and once the mangled steel was removed, were able to drop the new piece in and lash it down...and we were able to  de-zodiac and warm up.


 Aces, everyone of the deckhands...Aces, all.

After a little luncheon downtime to quickly weld the new piece in place, a new set of adventurers went off to get up close and personal with the ice.

Unexpected, totally!


Thursday, January 4, 2018

Cambridge Bay, Nunavut

A blustery day greeted me as the Crystal Serenity sailed into Cambridge Bay.



It’s the biggest port along the Northwest Passage.



Home to almost 1500 folks.



Now before you start rolling your eyes, remember that this area has been populated for more than 4000 years, around the time that the present-day Inuits’ ancestors came trotting- or sledding- across the Bering Strait.  They lived as their descendants do, hunting large land mammals and marine life.




Cambridge Bay is a bit livelier than the Hamlet of Ulukhaktok.  More modern.  Heck, they even have a fabulous coffee shop!  More on that, later.

We had to take a school bus from the zodiac landing into town.  This sticker on the first aid kit gave me a giggle.....maybe THIS is where Jimmy Hoffa wound up?






The “star of the show”, history-wise, was when famous explorer Roald Amundsen stopped in CB whilst discovering Northwest Passage. That was 1905.  



He returned in 1921 aboard his ship, the Maud, which was later sold to the  Hudson Bay Company.  She remained in Cambridge Bay where she sank in 1931.  Just in the past years, she has been raised.  On the day we visited, she actually set sail- this time being towed-  to return home to Norway, where a museum is to be built in her honor.  




Now that you know a little something of the history of Cambridge Bay, let me share with you some photos of this outpost in the High Arctic.

Here's the Medical Center...



And you know I had to check out the co-op for groceries...



The selection of fresh fruits and veggies was much greater than in Ulukhaktok...but just as pricey.


Not sure if you can see the signs, but they are written in both English and Inuktituk..



Didn't know one could purchase a fire poker--thought one just used a stick...


As I said, there is a FAB coffee shop in Cambridge Bay---Kuugaq


Like a good cold-weather denizen, I removed my (monogrammed-HA!) waterproof boots at the door....



Indoor herb garden makes this place extra special.



Gotta say- this was one GOOD latte!!


I found patches of green...



But they were few and far between.






Not exactly a four-star, seventy degree kinda hotel.  But it works.


I live at the corner of.....



Elder Palace- so much more elegant name than "nursing home".



This dear little Anglican mission had the most charming interior...



The stained glass windows told the the stories of the Bible, but with a decidedly Arctic spin.


 Noah's ark with a goose instead of a dove....


An angel dressed in Inuit clothing...


Mary and Joseph and Baby Jesus in an igloo.


 All the animals of the Arctic world gathered together.

Back at the community center, the locals welcomed us with typical fare.

Berries in puff pastry (nice gourmet touch), smoked salmon, and musk ox sliders.


Um...this.  Now you know I will try anything, and normally like it.  This, my friends, is mattak.
translation.  Narwhal blubber.  Imagine a mackerel-flavored gummi...but chewier.  I managed to swallow it.  Barely.


Fish jerky.  I think it was char...






Truly a memorable day.  For more than just the mattak.